In Guatemala, La Antigua is the Old City; set in the central highlands, it is renowned for Spanish Baroque architecture and colonial ruins. In Nashville, it is the only Guatemalan restaurant, housed in a modest stone-faced block building on Grandview and Woodbine. Inside this family-run establishment, it's basic, but bright and upbeat: The walls are painted sunny yellow, light Latin rhythms play on the radio and the staff is all smiles.
They'll welcome you with a basket of house-made tortilla chips. Crisp, thicker than you might expect, these are lapped in smooth red salsa, dusted with tangy cotija cheese. It's a nice treat while you peruse the menu. If you have any questions, no worries. The owners not only speak English well, but they also take pride in explaining the dishes, and making recommendations.
And, on house recommendation, you'll want to try one of the Agua Frescas: these beverages are designed to cool and refresh. The Agua de Jamaica infuses hibiscus flower tea with simple syrup; the deep ruby drink is berry-like and packed with vitamin C. More sweet-sour, but no less delicious, the Tamarind is fragrant with apple and citrus notes.
There's a steamtable-lunch buffet, if you're in a hurry. But it's worth the brief wait for some of the made-to-order specialties.
LA ANTIGUA
2600 Grandview Avenue, Nashville, 615-770-2900
Hours: 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Monday-Friday; 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday; noon-5 p.m. Sunday
Alcohol: no
Food: Guatemalan and Honduran cuisine
Cost: Breakfast: $4.99. Specialties and Entrees: $3.99-$8.99
Payment: MC/VISA
Parking: on-site lot
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